Or Linda Hamilton’s in Terminator 2, except literally.

It’s a partnership and the INDX isn’t a separate printer, just a new extruder, so it’s not like Prusa has no involvement. I would say “completely” is inaccurate here. If it were solely the effort of INDX, they wouldn’t need to partner with Prusa. There are other third parties that release mods for printers that aren’t collaborations with the original manufacturer.

If Prusa hired the INDX engineers from BondTech instead of partnering, would you still consider it completely separate? A company is just composed of current employees. At what point is it Theseus’ ship of development?

And that’s not even considering the CORE One, the recent CORE One+ update, the CORE One L announcement, the OpenPrintTag, et al. They’ve been announcing more new stuff in the last year at a faster rate than previous years.

Ever seen The Prestige?

Granted it’s from a partnership, but the INDX extruder seems to be on the cusp, so the idea that Prusa is behind seems odd. And the fact that they’re more open and consumer friendly than Bambu is great. There are a lot of affordable printers that have benefited from Prusa’s development while Prusa is still dropping new developments, seemingly at a greater rate now than previously.

I’ve been doing some simple python scripts on a raspberry pi 5 that I’m currently using for a cyberdeck project (designing a printable bigger case for a 65% Bluetooth gaming keyboard and shoving the pi and other devices into a 3D printed skull that will mount on the keyboard case), but even then I at least plug the pi into a full screen rather than use the 7" display I have for it when I’m actually working on it. The 65% isn’t bad though. Even came with a wrist pad.

It was definitely a nostalgia purchase. If I ended up doing any development for it, I’d still probably emulate and transfer files to it. But I never did anything more than play games on it as a kid, so there would be a time sink and learning curve if I wanted to do more with it.

I’ve been showing it off in my makerspace to the college students who weren’t alive in the 80s (or 90s). All the new features are welcome additions — USB, HDMI, WiFi, etc. And there are some modern chiptune applications included.

I’ve vindicated my childhood by discovering that the games that were difficult and confusing back then still are, and maybe some of them were just poorly designed in the first place.

I still love the soundtrack to Rock N Bolt and a good playthrough of River Raid though.

Not anti SA per se, but I learned to type on a Commodore 64 as a kid and recently got the C64 Ultimate, so the clunkiness of the experience is just fresh. This is a lower profile than the Commodore 64 though, so probably not as bad.

Do we celebrate with wrist braces or some other therapy for repetitive cramped typing injuries?

I do this probably once a day at my makerspace. Sometimes it is the manufacturer’s fault and sometimes it’s just that the roll has gotten a tangle while being moved from machine to machine or machine to rack.

I don’t put my finger on the tangle, but usually the tangle isn’t obvious in the spool so you can’t even if you wanted to.

It’s really just a matter of spinning the filament around the roll enough to get some slack, then you pull it over the side and sort it out. Usually the fix involves pushing the filament around the spool to unbind it.

This is another one of those issues that you typically detect by hearing an abnormal sound since you’re not watching every print all the time across multiple printers.

Definitely consider if you’ll use it enough to justify the purchase, but buying a new one and spending the effort that you would have used trying to mod the old one could be better used on the new machine getting functional prints and advancing your skills.

The same amount of fiddling, accompanied with the uncertainty of the success or practicality of the mod, could be spent assembling a new printer and then printing and assembling new mods for the new printer that aren’t as essential or structural. The appeal just depends on how much focus and patience you have.

This is one of those “technically true, but missing the bigger picture” pedantic gotchas.

Yes, Hercules is the Roman name not the Greek name. Yes, barbarian as a term originally meant not-Greek or not-Greek-enough for some Greeks.

But it’s not like you’re going for full historical accuracy already (or even could if you wanted to). It’s just a subjective scale of how accurate do you want to be in what ways that you think are important.

You’re not going to speak ancient or koine Greek when playing the game. You’re playing game rules that aren’t based solely on Greek mythological cosmology. Barbarian isn’t a term in DnD for non-Greeks the same way chai tea in English doesn’t mean “tea tea,” but rather “a spiced Indian tea.” Words have multiple meanings. Those meanings can change over time. Those words can have a different meaning in a different language even if adopted from the same source.

This was one of my bad jokes at the ren faire. I’d walk up to other people with staves and say, “so, you’re also here for the staff meeting?”

My natural inclination would be to make the body in a single color filament and then use a stencil to paint on the logos. It would print a lot easier and look more natural and authentic. The logos were painted on the planes historically. And if you use stencils to paint them on, the logos could be customized for individual prints.

To do process of elimination, I’d recommend trying a different brand of filament and a different type of filament (i.e. PLA), preferably freshly opened rolls. I’d also generally be wary of AliExpress, but that’s just been my experience of seeing multiple people be disappointed with what they get. If you’re looking for discounts on filament, there are a bunch of Black Friday deals going on right now.

That testing will at least tell you if it’s the brand or the type of filament that’s causing the issue. If you eliminate those by seeing no change, then you know it’s the printer itself and can start troubleshooting that next.

It looks like you’re printing it with the right side of the model in the picture angled down from the left, so you’re getting more layers to the left, which is giving you some unfortunate border and infill lines. Is it possible to print this all flat so it’s one smooth layer? If it’s the top layer, you might play with ironing as well. It’s hard to tell without seeing the whole model in context though.

When wanting more weight, but not wanting to add anything extra to the print, I use modifiers in Prusaslicer to add an internal shape that I set to 100% infill in contrast to the rest of the print. So if I want a weighted bottom to prevent a printed object from tipping over, just throw the modifier in with 100% infill at the bottom of the model before printing.

It’s especially nice to eliminate machine issues so you know that subsequent print issues are due to modeling problems or orientation while slicing or something else.

That one depends on the job. Some managers will love to exploit your inclination to hyper focus on solving problems and following the rules. They won’t ask you to work unpaid after hours but if you want to they won’t protest… Doing a third of the work for a team of six people? That’s great, but your next performance review will include the criticism that you’re not as social as your coworkers because you’re too busy doing the job.

You can get a new Sovol SV06 for less than $200. That worked very well out of the box compared to my older Ender 3. Prusaslicer also has a good profile for it. I don’t care for Cura slicer as much. Enders are of an older generation of printers that I will personally avoid just because of the legacy of having to tinker with them just to get them to work. The opposite end is the Bambu where “it just works” except it doesn’t always and it’s not as easy to fix and it doesn’t play well with third parties. Sovol is a good starter printer that I’d had even better bed adhesion with over Prusa MK4Ss at work.