From the IRF1404Z data sheet:

Calculated continuous current based on maximum allowable junction temperature. Bond wire current limit is 120A. Note that current limitations arising from heating of the device leads may occur with some lead mounting arrangements.

You need to design the PCB so that the heat from the legs can be properly dissipated, or they won’t live up to the rated current.

Also, traces on a PCB are much thinner than those legs. A trace with the same cross-sectional area would be impractically wide.

Alt-text:

Unfortunately, SawStart is one-use-only. Once started, the blade cannot be stopped, and must be replaced with a fresh blade while the running one is carefully disposed of.

I think this might just be a particularly uncooperative tire, but it should work if you wrestle it on there. Maybe post a picture of the whole wheel, there might be something here I’m missing.

Unpopular opinion: The license makes sense and should have been enforced from the start.

The Benchy is a benchmarking tool, not just visually but there are also various features you can measure and check against the dimensions on the website. But that doesn’t work if the model you’re printing has been modified.

If it looks like a beachy, it should have been printed from the original model, so it’s always comparable. Preventing derivatives means you can be sure of that, even if it came on the included SD card with your printer. Otherwise, manufacturers could include a modified model that makes their printers look better than they are.

Relevant xkcd

Every single freewheel does this, and it’s not an issue.

The freewheel bearings don’t line up exactly with the wheel bearings. This is always the case to some degree, because the interface between freewheel and hub is a non-precision thread.

It might look weird when freewheeling, but once you put use the pedals, freewheel and hub are rotating together, negating this wobble.

If you can wait a couple weeks, AliExpress is going to be the cheapest.

eBay may be a bit more expensive, but it’s often my go-to because you can find everything and usually there are options with short shipping times.

For not too obscure parts, I would look at Reichelt, their prices are surprisingly low (especially if you bundle your orders to save on shipping costs).

Can you get a big flathead screwdriver in there to carefully knock it out? It should allow you to get a better angle than the dedicated tool.

Go slowly and alternate the places you’re putting the end of the screw driver. You want to push the cup out evenly, or it will jam and possibly deform the head tube.

HiPER Calc Pro. A great scientific calculator I use constantly. (There is also a unpaid, ad-supported version, and the ads weren’t too intrusive the last time I tried it)

That’s probably not a bad idea, although I doubt it will make much of a difference. But since you’re redesigning the whole thing, might as well do it.

It looks like you would want an even airflow through the whole PSU. The main heat-generating components are using the sides of the housing as a heat sink. I’m guessing the fan is mostly so the air inside the housing doesn’t get too warm, not to cool individual components.

Where is the original air exhaust? If it’s near the bottom of the picture, that would confirm my theory. In that case, I would keep the fan placement as close to original as possible (i.e. the blue square).

You can use a boost converter to boost the 5V of an USB port to the 19V your notebook needs.

Assuming 5A output from a powerbank (which is probably about the max you will get without USB PD), you could theoretically get 0.55A at 19V. With the unavoidable inefficiencies, you will get less.

So, maybe enough to very slowly charge your notebook while it’s off. But when it’s turned on, the battery charge will still drop.

This seems to be a bug in the slicer. I’m seeing the same issue in OrcaSlicer if the skirt height is set to more than one layer (even if the skirt is disabled). This makes sense if a skirt is used (can’t print a continuous spiral if you have to switch between printing the object and the skirt), but not if it’s disabled.

What slicer are you using? If it’s a PrusaSlicer fork, this is likely the same bug.

From a cursory read of the datasheet, using the “dead time control” pin seems to be the way to go. Basically, this pin is used to set the voltage, while the error amplifier inputs (that’s the closest function to “over current protection” this chip has) are used to adjust the output according to the load. For your application, you probably don’t need to use them at all.

My instinct would be to disable the error amplifiers by connecting pins 1,2,15 and 16 to GND. You can then connect the wiper pin of the potentiometer to the deadtime control input, with the other pins of the potentiometer connected to GND and 3.3 V.

I haven’t worked with this chip before, so take this with a grain of salt. You should probably use a simulation tool to check the circuit before you start destroying chips.

My router is called Jupiter, everything connected to it is named after a moon. Callisto, Ganymede, Thelxinoe, Kallichore are what I’m currently using.

You can host a Firefox sync server yourself. You could run that on something like a Raspberry Pi in your local network. If you need remote access, use something like cloudflare tunnels (although I guess that’s something else to be paranoid about).

Windows is clearly superior. If you’ve had enough of the settings app, you can just switch to the control center!

What did you expect? We’re talking about one guy who might have lived over 2000 years ago. You’re not going to find his birth certificate and social security number.

The best anyone can do is assign a probability to his existence. And reading the article you yourself linked to, that probability seems to be pretty high.

It is more efficient to have a ship moving with cargo than without, but that doesn’t mean there aren’t additional emissions. The ratio of profit to effort is just higher because there is some profit as opposed to none. You wouldn’t load a ship up with useless mass you can’t sell just so you’re shipping something.

Your argument is like always running the heater in your car because that way the engine heat is at least used for something. Yes, technically the efficiency goes up because more of the energy in the fuel is harnessed. But that doesn’t mean the fuel usage or emissions are any lower, and in the summer the heater doesn’t do you any good either.

That’s why I don’t let every device decide individually. I know my router (FritzBox) prioritizes the pi-hole (it’s even called “preferred” and “alternative” DNS-Server in the UI)